A Guide to Dolly Sods Wilderness

Dolly Sods Wilderness Preserve is a mountain plateau resting from 2,500 to 4,700 feet elevation and is a part of the Monongahela National Forest in eastern West Virginia.

This area is known for its unique scenery and wildlife. The plateau’s geologic features offer a landscape compared to the Canada.

History

Dolly Sods got its name after the Dahle family used the fields at Bear Rocks Preserve to graze livestock in the 1800s.

In the 1800s, an era of logging would be the fate of the once-prosperous forest. Northern Dolly Sods and the surrounding Tucker County were heavily stripped of trees. This area was home to ancient red spruce and eastern hemlock forests. Some of these trees stood tall at 60 to 90 feet. Unfortunately, most of the trees cut down were not officially recorded, so the average size remains a mystery. In addition, the use of heavy machinery caused multiple wildfires that devastated all of the northern wilderness. The fires were so fierce that it destroyed the ancient forest to ashes.

Years after the violent wildfires that reduced the wilderness to an ashy desert, a new threat to recovery arrives. In 1943 to 1944, the US Army used Dolly Sods for mortar and artillery training before sending troops to Europe. The Army would fire rounds targeting Blackbird Knob and Cabin Mountain. This left many rounds unexploded in the wilderness that still exist today. In 1997, bomb squads entered the area to find and demolish as many bombs as possible.

In 1972, the Nature Conservancy saved this land by buying most of it for $15 million. By 1975, Dolly Sods became protected by the Wilderness Act finally allowing the landscape to heal and regrow.

Dolly Sods is now a thriving ecosystem home to very unique and out-of-place life and scenery

Wildlife & Ecosystems

Anywhere from a day hike to a weekend backpacking trip, Dolly Sods offers a vast variety of scenery to be explored.

Northern Dolly Sods has the most incredible scenery in the wilderness. Hiking from Bear Rocks Trail, you will walk through sphagnum bogs, cranberry fields, and red spruce forests with occasional hardwood forests.

Weather

Dolly Sods is the highest plateau east of the Mississippi. High winds shape the trees and rocks of the northern area of the wilderness.

The elevation and wind make it common for Dolly Sods to not experience temperatures over 70 degrees in the summer. Warmer months are also met with frequent thunderstorms bringing low visibility fog and saturated trails.

Weather in this region can be unpredictable. Rainstorms can make their way through the plateau even if the forecast is not calling for it. Snow and frost can also occur during any month of the year.

A Few Ways to Get Here

Turn onto Forest Road 75 from Jordan Run Rd to get to the northern area of Dolly Sods.

Further down the Jordan Run Rd, a turn onto Forest Road 19 that will take you to middle of Dolly Sods around the picnic area. FR 19 intersects with FR 75, allowing you to still access Bear Rocks.

If you continue following FR 19, instead of turning onto FR 75 for bear rocks, head down the gravel road towards Laneville to access parking for the Red Creek trail.

From January 1 to April 15, FR 75 is gated closed for the winter.

What to Expect

If you are visiting here during warmer months, especially on the weekends, expect large crowds and overflown parking at Bear Rocks. Bear Rocks Preserve is the most visited area of the wilderness so finding parking around this area after noon can be challenging.

If you are looking to get away from the crowds, anywhere from Beaver Dam Trail to the Red Creek trailhead can make for a quiet and peaceful hike.

Checking the weather before leaving for Dolly Sods is advised so you can pack and prepare accordingly.

Cell service is not usually available in most areas on the plateau. I have found a few small areas with a bar of service, but the connection was not reliable.

Trails

Dolly Sods Wilderness is comprised of 47 miles of trails. None of the trails are marked by blazes, only an occasional trail sign at intersections. Trail GPS apps like AllTrails or Gaia GPS makes for more straightforward navigation.

Frequent rain storms make trails and bogs more difficult to get around. Leaping from rock to rock avoiding large puddles makes for difficult hiking. A majority of the trails have creeks intersecting with rocks to balance on to get across. Bringing a pair of waterproof shoes is essential for hiking here.

Camping

On top of the plateau the primitive style Red Creek Campground offers great drive-in spots. These spots are first come first serve at $11 per night for a site. There is also no potable water at the campground, so you will have to treat or bring your own.

Camping in the backcountry is the most rewarding. Along the 47 miles of trails you will come across multiple sites along most trails. Each site has a fire pit and rock chairs.

Practice Leave No Trace

Leaving no trace is a principle set in place to reduce the amount of litter and damage to wilderness. Click this link for an overview of Leave No Trace.

Conclusion

Dolly Sods Wilderness is a place I have been to a dozen times, and each time I grow to love it more. Have you been to Dolly Sods before? If so, what was your favorite part? Please comment below.